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Posts tagged fashion

Fashion Anthropology: Primates of Park Avenue

“My husband and I like to read at the table, sharing paragraphs and tidbits of information. He surprised me last week by reading selections from Primates of Park Avenue: A Memoir, by Wednesday Martin. (Simon & Schuster, 2015.) He found it engrossing, and so did I.”
Source: Fashion Anthropology: Primates of Park Avenue

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“My husband and I like to read at the table, sharing paragraphs and tidbits of information. He surprised me last week by reading selections from Primates of Park Avenue: A Memoir, by Wednesday Martin. (Simon & Schuster, 2015.) He found it engrossing, and so did I.”

Source: Fashion Anthropology: Primates of Park Avenue

Image: Two women in evening dress, Nov. 1936. Woman’s Home Companion.

Self-Expression and Creativity in Making Fashion Choices by Sunsm

https://sunsm.wordpress.com/2016/08/19/woman-wardrobe/

By Sunsm 24.2.15 SUNSM “woman wardrobe” Like the rest of the people in the Western world, I believe that my fashion choices reflect aspects of my personality. When I wear clothes, they are really symbols, or a type of language which explains who I am. Hence, for example, I will only buy and wear analogue watches which have an old fashioned feel to them and I, as a general rule, only wear…

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By Sunsm

24.2.15

https://sunsm.wordpress.com/2016/08/19/woman-wardrobe/

SUNSM “woman wardrobe”

Like the rest of the people in the Western world, I believe that my fashion choices reflect aspects of my personality. When I wear clothes, they are really symbols, or a type of language which explains who I am. Hence, for example, I will only buy and wear analogue watches which have an old fashioned feel to them and I, as a general rule, only wear ‘classic’ looking clothes. This fashion choice relays the information that I seek to go above the merely ephemeral and wish to feel part of a tradition. The fashion choice is also a homage to my grandfather, who, like the rest of the Asian Diaspora of his generation, would wear suit jackets and trousers and shoes even in their leisure hours. Hence, I favour cardigans with nice buttons, shirts and jackets, although I will often wear these with the ubiquitous blue jeans and trainers (so even in the application of my personal, general rule, there is something that is more contemporary). Sometimes, I also mix this old-fashioned basis with a layer of brilliant colour. As I write this piece, for example, I am wearing a bright pink jumper with a white t-shirt showing underneath and with blue jeans. I believe that these intense colours relay ideas about my passionate and intense nature, my whimsical, flamboyant and creative side.

What I wish to consider here, is how much self-expression and creativity is allowed in our fashion choices. After all, most of us do not make our own clothes. We wear the vision of others. Our self-expression and creativity therefore, when it comes to fashion choice, appears to consist in our selection and arrangement of clothes in relation to other people’s selection and arrangement of clothes.

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NIL Muttonhead

Toronto apparel brand Muttonhead has been steadily making a name for itself as one of Canada’s top ethical and sustainable fashion retailers. Muttonhead specializes in “slow design” as a counter-movement to the rise of fad-focused, disposable “fast fashion.” Rather than outsourcing its business, Muttonhead achieves a more ethical form of production by manufacturing all of their clothing in…

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Toronto apparel brand Muttonhead has been steadily making a name for itself as one of Canada’s top ethical and sustainable fashion retailers. Muttonhead specializes in “slow design” as a counter-movement to the rise of fad-focused, disposable “fast fashion.” Rather than outsourcing its business, Muttonhead achieves a more ethical form of production by manufacturing all of their clothing in Toronto, while enforcing quality control and fair trade practices. The company even develops several of its own types of fabric, all of which are milled in Toronto as well.

NIL Muttonhead 1 NIL Muttonhead 3 NIL Muttonhead
Another unique aspect of Muttonhead’s approach is the focus on unisex clothing. The brand focuses on timeless, rather than fad designs, which appeal to both men and women alike. Founder Meg Sinclair explains that she wanted to create a lifestyle brand that produces timeless, high-quality outerwear “for the everyday adventurer”, regardless of their gender. Her efforts herald a new approach to fashion design that focuses on sustainability and quality, over globalized, disposable fashion.

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Style: New York, New York with NIL & 7ology

NIL 7ology The Met

NIL 7ology The Met

NERDS IN LUXURY | The Sevenology

A quick weekend trip to Manhattan with the ladies of The Sevenology. We ate too much, drank too much and that’s the best type of trip. Until next time, Chicago perhaps?

xo, VZ

NIL VZ 31

VZ is very excited to be in the #13or31? club.

Green Kitty NIL

Kitty looking for inspiration for her Paris flat.

NIL Jenn

Jenn about to rush Jesus for his bread.

Zip Rip NIL

Hanah and Veronica staying cool at every opportunity.

unnamed

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NIL 7ology The Met

NERDS IN LUXURY | The Sevenology

A quick weekend trip to Manhattan with the ladies of The Sevenology. We ate too much, drank too much and that’s the best type of trip. Until next time, Chicago perhaps?

xo, VZ

NIL VZ 31

VZ is very excited to be in the #13or31? club.

Green Kitty NIL

Kitty looking for inspiration for her Paris flat.

NIL Jenn

Jenn about to rush Jesus for his bread.

Zip Rip NIL

Hanah and Veronica staying cool at every opportunity.

unnamed

Examining Fashion’s Absence of African-American Designers

Hood by Air designer Shayne Oliver. Photo: Getty Images

Hood by Air designer Shayne Oliver. Photo: Getty Images

Hood by Air designer Shayne Oliver. Photo: Getty Images

by: ERIKA ADAMS

In her latest report for the The New York Times, Vanessa Friedman unpacks the lack of African-American designers in the fashion industry. According to the report, only three out of the 270 shows on the New York Fashion Week calendar are by African-American designers with global reach. Extend the pool to include brands with…

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Hood by Air designer Shayne Oliver. Photo: Getty Images

Hood by Air designer Shayne Oliver. Photo: Getty Images

by: 

In her latest report for the The New York Times, Vanessa Friedman unpacks the lack of African-American designers in the fashion industry. According to the report, only three out of the 270 shows on the New York Fashion Week calendar are by African-American designers with global reach. Extend the pool to include brands with revenue under $1 million, and the number jumps up to just over 2.7% of the total shows. The Council of Fashion Designers of America mirrors the same lack of diversity: 12 out of 470 CFDA members are African-American. “There were more high-profile black designers in the 1970s than there are today,” Bethann Hardison, a prominent figure in promoting diversity in fashion, told Friedman. “We’re going backwards.”

Friedman approaches the subject from a number of different angles, finding a number of different factors for why those numbers are so startlingly low. While the industry is heavily influenced by African-American style heavyweights (Rihanna, Beyoncé, etc.) designers like Tracy Reese and Shayne Oliver of Hood by Air are some of the few who have managed to produce and distribute their lines on a global scale. “My parents always said, ‘You’re going to have to work twice as hard as a white person, so be prepared,’ ” Reese told Friedman. “It didn’t hurt my feelings. I didn’t focus on it personally.”

The problem traces in part back to the education environment. At the Fashion Institute of Technology, 8% of fashion design graduates in 2014 were African-American. At Parsons, that percentage slid down to 3.31% and at Pratt only 1.9% of graduates were African-American. While some blame could be placed on the financial aspect of attending these top design schools (African-Americans’s reported median income is $33,000 and Parsons and Pratt each cost around $60,000 per year), all of the schools do offer financial aid programs.

Friedman suggests that the problem may be more rooted in the fact that it isn’t seen as a viable career among younger kids, because there are so few African-American designers who have found success in the business. And for the African-American designers who have “made it,” there’s concern that they are confined to acting like white designers because that’s where the bar is set. “Playing by the rules of what a designer should be works against you as a black designer,” HBA’s Shayne Oliver told Friedman. “There’s always a white face who plays the game better than you. You have to make your own rules.”

 

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I think it’s right to say I stumbled into the world of make-up at a very young age, overwhelmed and confused by the large variety of products and brands and not exactly knowing what to do with it all. The difference between eye-liner and eyebrow pencil remained a myth to me until later into my teenage years and I can say, confidently now, that it did take me a while to even get a grasp on what suited me, what I needed and where.

Drug store makeup can be every girl’s saving grace, affordable makeup that caters for every woman right? Wrong. I won’t be completely brutal though, drug store makeup within the UK has definitely expanded throughout the last few years, offering a larger variety of high street and high-end brands including Chanel, Dior and Estee lauder. The problem lies however, when a market more or less closes its doors to a group of women simply due to skin colour. How is it that an issue that so many black female’s within the UK are experiencing is being, well, ignored? The most recent report from Mintel, published in 2009 on ‘Marketing Beauty to Black Women’ states that only 2% of the total market for women’s hair care, skin care and makeup is dedicated towards black women. Yes I said it, 2%. That 2% being well under their percentage of their representation within the population. Essentially the UK cosmetic industry is delivering the message that it’s okay to exclude a racial group from their market, if there’s a chance they could damage your yearly revenue. In a society that claims to be forward thinking and banishing the social walls of racial prejudice, the fact that black women are denied the basic choice of drug store makeup seems to be quite a backward concept to me.

Speaking from first-hand experience, I know exactly what it feels like to feel devalued within such a large and expanding industry. I use a relatively known brad of foundation from L’Oreal’s “true match” range that seemingly caters towards every skin shade. It’s been the first drug store brand I’ve found that actually matches my skin tone, without leaving my face looking slightly ghostly or two shades darker than the rest of my body. I find it hard to believe that within the space of two weeks, I continuously visited 6 of my local Boots and Superdrug store’s to replace my empty bottle only to come back empty-handed, disappointed and with the meaningless promise of “new stock” arriving soon. One member of staff looked at me with pitying eyes as she, tried to hand me a lighter, rather orange, shade of foundation asking “Will this do?” Unsurprisingly however, that “new stock” I was promised never arrived and I didn’t really fancy a pumpkin shade of foundation for Halloween. 2/3 of the stores I visited didn’t even have any allocated space on their shelves for darker shades of makeup. Tell me, what kind of message does that give out to black women or even women in general about their physical appearances? That there isn’t a place within our market place, or you’re less valued, because you’re a shade too dark for us? I believe it’s hard enough being a woman from a minority race within a country that celebrates and essentially force feeds ideas of ‘European beauty’ over African or Caribbean beauty already.

The idea that there’s little discrimination and prejudice within the make-up industry is a lie we’re being continuously fooled to believe, simply because it doesn’t affect a wider percentage of the population. Ignoring the wrong doings of a society in my eyes is exactly the same as condoning it. I don’t want to have the knowledge that there are similar females like me within the UK, or even the world, that are experiencing feelings of discrimination within a market place that should cater to all. This idea that has been subconsciously hanging in the air of the beauty industry that beauty is defined by skin colour is a lie, but more than that, it’s damaging. Womyn are already bombarded with images within the media of the ideal of a ‘perfect woman’ and being told you need to adjust this, tighten this up, get rid of this to even be considered a figure of beauty. I would like to think that the times of racial prejudice are no longer as prevalent as they once were, but unless issues such as this are addressed, women will continuously feel discriminated and targeted against.

I’m a luxury retail professional aka “I know I can confidently stand/run/climb ladders in 4in heels for 8 hours”. My secret, which isn’t a secret, are insoles and arch supports. They’re far from sexy but we’ve all seen that one woman carrying her heels in hand after a night of dancing and we’re more chic than that, aren’t we? 

Women (and men) are often shocked when I tell them that I can do an eight hour work day in heels. “Aren’t your feet killing you?” “I could never do that!” I would never advocate standing in heels for hours on end but if you do it right your next day aches and pains will be minimal.

I always do the following when buying heels:

I ask the sales person to stretch the toe box for 20-30 minutes per shoe. I already know I have a wide foot and have found personally that this will alleviate possible heel pain or stress from squished toes.

I wear “no show” or “toe socks”. When my feet are hot they swell which causes discomfort. Socks or insoles that wick away heat helps keep my feet from swelling up on a hot day (or a hectic Saturday afternoon rush.)

I take a few days to break them in, for example I’ll wear them for only four hours a day or two and then for longer stretches in the following days. I always have a flat with me incase I have to run a bit more or if I start doing the shuffle walk in my heels.

I alternate heel heights and styles. Always let your heels “dry out” between wears, we all have that one friend who admits to a less than fragrant pair of shoes. Take note that person probably wears them everyday in all sorts of weather and possibly without socks. The bacteria has festered, so yeah their feet stink.

Let your high heels and your calfs rest. Flats are our friends. The only thing I like more than a dope pair of heels is a dope pair of sneakers or flats. I’m not talking about breaking out your running shoes but get a few pairs of fashionable sneakers. I own pairs from Melody Ehsani x Reebok, Tory Burch, Cole Haan and Puma. 

The Coveteur has more tips and tricks on their site. Click though for more.

High Heel Health 101 – The Coveteur

http://graphics8.nytimes.com/bcvideo/1.0/iframe/embed.html?videoId=100000003046887&playerType=embed

Bill Cunningham | Gray Is the New Black

I realize that Mr. Cunningham has already spoken to the gray trend for Spring/Summer but this trend is still really strong for Autumn. I’ve been encouraging my clients to trade in their black bags for shades of gray this season and while not all are convinced, the ones that are trying it aren’t coming back for black anytime soon.